Hvar Island – A Paradise Oasis on the Croatian Riviera

Famous the world over for its crystal-clear waters, Hvar is the most popular and lively island in Croatia. It’s a place that draws visitors with its sophistication, nightlife, beautiful beaches and incredibly tasty food. After so many trips to destinations all over the world, I’ve become convinced that a place you can only reach by boat can’t help but be appealing – especially to an adventurer like me. It’s no coincidence that it’s one of the favourite holiday spots of stars like Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise and Beyoncé, who sail in on their luxury yachts every year. Another, even more interesting fact is that Hvar is said to be the sunniest of all the Dalmatian islands, with more than 2,800 hours of sunshine a year – the perfect place to top up on vitamin D.

I was lucky enough to visit Hvar during my trip to Croatia in May. We were staying in Split and used it as a base for the various places along the Adriatic coast we’d picked out in advance. I’d heard about Hvar from a Croatian friend of mine. As soon as she found out I was going to visit her homeland, she told me ‘You absolutely have to go to Hvar!’ – and so there we were, on the ferry from Split to this beautiful Adriatic island. In summer, several ferry companies carry passengers between the two resorts, and it’s the only way to get to Hvar. The crossing takes about an hour. The moment we approached the harbour of the island’s main town, which shares its name – Hvar – I started falling in love with its fairy-tale beauty and the distinctive Baroque Venetian charm it has kept through the centuries.

When to visit Hvar

Hvar, like the other destinations along Croatia’s Adriatic coast, draws the most visitors in summer, with the peak in July and August. Bearing in mind the higher temperatures then too, my advice is to avoid those two months. Plan your holiday for April, May, June or September, when there will be far fewer people around. Personally, I can’t stand crowds and crushes, which is why we went at the end of May – and the weather was more than wonderful.

How to get there

The only way to get to Hvar is by ferry from Split. The crossing takes just over an hour, and it’s a good idea to buy your tickets online in advance to avoid queuing. As Hvar is one of the most popular summer destinations in the country, ferries run fairly often. You can check the timetable here. Sadly, there are no direct flights from Sofia to Split, but there are flights to Zadar (another Croatian seaside destination), which isn’t far from Split. Flights to Zadar only run in summer.

What to see in Hvar

St Stephen’s Square and the Cathedral

I’ll start with the first sight in Hvar, which you’re bound to run into the moment you step off the ferry. For more than six centuries, St Stephen’s Square has been the main hub of Hvar town, used for all kinds of events, and it sits right next to the harbour. The square is framed by old Venetian and Renaissance buildings with façades of the white stone so typical of Dalmatia. The star of this whole architectural ensemble is the cathedral and its bell tower, which soars above the square.

The town is quite small, and pretty much every street leads to St Stephen’s. The square is a meeting place for locals and for the tourists who flock to the island in summer. There are loads of restaurants and bars with terraces where you can while away the late afternoon over a drink or a tasty dessert, simply soaking up the romantic, old-world atmosphere – incredibly relaxing, with just a hint of chaos. The locals’ favourite pastime is to sit in one of the cafés and simply watch the people passing through the square.

The Venetian Loggia and the Clock Tower

Built in the 13th century, the Venetian Loggia is a fine example of late Renaissance architecture on the Croatian island of Hvar. One of the first things you’ll see as you head from Hvar harbour towards the town centre is this once-splendid palace of the local Venetian governor, with its impressive clock tower. The palace was huge, with views over the bay and the town’s harbour. The Loggia was badly damaged when the Ottoman Turks invaded in the 16th century, and was then rebuilt in a far more lavish style than before. Today, the surviving part of its façade belongs to a luxury spa hotel.

The Spanish Fortress

Getting to the entrance couldn’t be easier. Take any of the lanes to the left of the cathedral and you’ll pass through the old town and come out right at the entrance. From there you’ll walk through a park full of exotic plants, along with the remains of a small church and other military buildings. An interesting fact about Hvar‘s citadel is that it was built in the mid-16th century by the Venetians as a military stronghold for keeping an eye on the nearby islands, at a time when Croatia’s Adriatic coast was part of the Republic of Venice. Spanish engineers also helped build it, which is where the name comes from – the locals started calling it the ‘Spanish’ fortress. I’d recommend going early in the morning, before it gets too hot. The fortress offers an incredible view of Hvar town at its foot and of the Pakleni Islands. There’s an entrance fee of 40 kuna.

The Franciscan Monastery

Tucked beside a little cove right next to the harbour stands the five-centuries-old Franciscan Monastery, with its tall bell tower. The monastery is one of the landmarks of Hvar’s waterfront and a wonderful place to watch the sun set over the Adriatic, far from the hustle and bustle of the town. Inside, you’ll find a collection of Roman, Greek and Venetian coins, along with other fascinating artefacts from the island’s history, and one of the most impressive things on display is ‘The Last Supper’ by the Venetian painter Matteo Ingoli. If you’re drawn to history, I highly recommend a visit. As for everyone else, I’d suggest enjoying the peace of the monastery gardens, where, surrounded by fragrant cypress trees, you can while away the late afternoon on a bench or watch a beautiful sunset with someone you love. It really is magical!

Stari Grad

Although Hvar is the main town of the island that bears its name, Stari Grad is the island’s main ferry port. Remarkably, this little old town is actually the oldest town not only on the island but in the whole of Croatia. Founded in the 4th century BC, over its long history it has been ruled by several great empires – the Roman, Venetian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian – and it even came under Napoleon’s rule for a time. All this has undoubtedly left its mark not only on the look but also on the culture of the island. It feels far more cosmopolitan and colourful than the other places we visited.

Although it’s much quieter than Hvar town, Stari Grad has an awful lot to see, so one day is hardly enough to get round everything and properly enjoy its charm. Dozens of old villas, churches, museums and cafés are among visitors’ favourite spots. My own favourites are still the waterfront promenade and the old town.

Dubovica Beach

It wasn’t hard to see why Dubovica is called the most beautiful beach on Hvar. Tucked into a little cove surrounded by rocks, this white pebble beach draws visitors with its crystal-clear water and stunning scenery. Behind the beach there’s a small pine wood, a few old houses and a tiny abandoned church, and the beach itself is like something out of a fairy tale. I’d honestly go back to Hvar just to spend a few more days lazing in the hot sun right there. Without exaggerating, it’s so quiet and peaceful that even other people’s conversations don’t intrude, because the beach is long and there aren’t that many tourists (which suits me perfectly). We’d been warned that it gets pretty crowded in summer, but we were obviously lucky, as it was wonderfully quiet on the day we went. The beach isn’t far from Hvar town, and if you don’t have a hire car, you can get there by taxi. Don’t forget to take the driver’s phone number so you can book a taxi back, as there’s no proper car park and so no taxis waiting.

Jelsa

The best way to get a feel for rural life on Hvar is to visit the little resort town of Jelsa in the north of the island. Although it’s the size of a village, Jelsa is a favourite family resort, especially with Croatians, and it offers a peace and quiet you won’t find in the island’s bigger resorts. Even if you decide not to stay in Jelsa, I’d still recommend a trip there. The town has a charm all of its own. There’s an old quarter with narrow cobbled lanes, and at its heart lies the Croatian Renaissance square – or simply the Pjaca, as the locals call it – ringed on all sides by the tables of the little restaurants there. In summer, especially in the evenings, the square is buzzing and makes a lovely place for a stroll after a day spent on one of the amazing beaches nearby.

Vrboska

Another interesting and quieter spot I’d recommend is the fishing village of Vrboska. Today a pretty resort, Vrboska draws visitors with its architecture, preserved through the centuries, and the sense of calm you feel in its lanes. Built along both sides of a long inlet, Vrboska is often called ‘Mala Venecija’ or ‘Little Venice’ by the locals, because of the large canal the inlet forms as it cuts through the middle of the village. The two sides of the village are linked by a small stone bridge. In fact, Vrboska is the smallest town on Hvar, though to me it feels more like a tiny village. Even so, don’t picture a typical Balkan village with livestock and fields of crops. The resort impresses visitors with its grand Renaissance and Gothic buildings, while its narrow cobbled lanes add to the romantic setting. Besides the sights in Vrboska – among them the fishing harbour, St Mary’s Church, the canal and the lovely old houses lining it – you can also treat yourself to something rather exciting: a wine tasting (as long as you’re not driving, of course).

The Pakleni Islands

A little further up, among the sights of the island’s main town, Hvar, I told you about the incredible view from the Spanish Fortress over the fairy-tale archipelago of the Pakleni Islands. They’re a group of 20 small islands lying south of Hvar. Most of them are uninhabited, which has helped to preserve their natural beauty. Their pristine beaches and crystal-clear water turn the whole archipelago into a little slice of paradise. You can easily get there either by hiring a small motorboat or by taxi. Yes, you read that right! At Hvar harbour there are water taxis that will take you wherever you like in the area. The third option is an organised cruise, but we’d recommend hiring a boat and going on your own. That way you can use your time however you like and visit more of the islands’ amazing beaches.

Try Dalmatian cooking

Don’t miss the chance to try the local cooking, with its wide range of seafood, freshly caught fish and local takes on pasta, plus the excellent wines made from grapes grown on the island. In fact, the people of Hvar are proud to boast that wine has been made here ever since the island was an ancient Greek colony. One of the most popular things for visitors to do is a wine-tasting tour of various local wineries. I can confirm that the local red is superb. I’ll also recommend two restaurants that serve exceptionally tasty food and have very high ratings for good reason – Dalmatino in Hvar’s old town and Antika in Stari Grad.