Along the Amalfi Coast – a Romantic Fairy Tale with the Scent of Lemons

I’m not sure the Amalfi Coast can be summed up in a single word, but if I had to, I’d call it enchanting. Driving the narrow, twisting roads to Positano, where our tour of the area began, was a real challenge. The incredible, breathtaking views kept stealing my attention, and my focus drifted from the road to the pretty seaside towns tucked beneath the rocky cliffs. My eyes were trying to drink in every detail of all this otherworldly beauty, while my brain was doing a balancing act to keep us alive and out of the crash barriers. I couldn’t wait to ditch the car somewhere, sit down at a seafront bar, order an Aperol Spritz each and then dive into the crystal-clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Wandering through the little Amalfi towns, meanwhile, felt like stepping into an old romantic Italian film from the 60s. Pure paradise.

It doesn’t surprise me that almost 5 million tourists visit the Amalfi Coast every year. It’s one of the most visited destinations not just in Italy but in Europe. And precisely because the region is such a tempting magnet for tourists, the Amalfi Coast can feel overcrowded and rather pricey compared with other parts of Italy. I’ve written this blog not only to share my impressions and the sights, but to help you choose exactly which places to visit and where to stay to suit your budget and personal tastes.

How to get there?

The first stop on your way to the Amalfi Coast will be Naples, since the city has an international airport and pretty good transport links with the rest of the country. There are plenty of cheap flights from Sofia to Naples several times a week. Unfortunately, there’s no direct bus from Naples to the Amalfi towns, so you have two options. The first takes longer but is easier on the wallet – the train to Sorrento, then a bus to whichever towns you’ve got your eye on. The second is to hire a car; the drive takes about an hour and a half, even though it’s only around 60 km, thanks to the winding mountain road. Naturally, this is the more convenient but more expensive option, as it gives you the freedom to choose when and where to go. That’s exactly why we chose to hire a car. All the towns have private car parks where you can leave the car if you can’t find a free space. It’s also a good idea to let your hotel know in advance that you’ll need a parking space so they can keep one for you, as they don’t have many.

When to visit the Amalfi Coast?

There’s no denying that the Amalfi Coast is far more charming and magical on sunny days, which is why in summer it’s hard to avoid the crowds in the narrow streets of the towns. Summer is the busiest season, as it is everywhere in Europe, but personally I think May, September and October are the best months, as there are far fewer tourists than in the summer. Between November and April hotel prices are lower, but you risk rain ruining your trip. We visited the Amalfi area at the beginning of October, and the weather was still perfect for the beach, with daytime temperatures of around 26 degrees. I’ve always said that the one thing that can spoil a destination for me is crowds of tourists and all the jostling that comes with them. We managed to avoid that, and I can honestly say I truly enjoyed every single one of the towns I’ll tell you about further down.

What to see there?

Sorrento

As well as being incredibly easy to reach by public transport, Sorrento is also far cheaper as a place to stay, which is why most travellers exploring the Amalfi Coast use it as a base for visiting the other towns in the region and Capri. If you’ve decided not to hire a car and to make the most of Italian public transport instead, there’s a direct train as well as a ferry from Naples to Sorrento. From Sorrento, a bus runs to Salerno (the end of the Amalfi Coast), stopping at every single town along the way – handy, because you won’t have to hunt for somewhere to park. Bear in mind that parking spaces in the towns are limited and the prices are pretty steep.

Sorrento is famous for its stunning views, rich culture and heavenly food. You can wander the pretty, winding streets of the old town and visit one of its biggest sights – the Basilica of Sant’Antonino (Sant’Antonino), whose history goes back as far as the 4th century and which is now considered one of the finest examples of Neapolitan baroque architecture in the region. At the heart of the town is the lively Piazza Tasso, where locals and visitors gather to soak up the atmosphere from a pleasant café. I’ve saved my favourite place in Sorrento for last – the old fishing village, now part of the town, of Marina Grande, where you can stroll by the sea past colourful, picturesque old houses and enjoy the sunset from one of the local restaurants. One of the most typical local dishes to try is gnocchi Sorrento-style (Gnocchi alla Sorrentina), and I’d recommend trying the local limoncello too.

Positano

Positano is, without doubt, the calling card of the Amalfi Coast. You’ve almost certainly come across photos or videos of this little slice of paradise on social media at least once. It’s also one of the most visited places in the whole of Italy. This may surprise you, but the number of visitors the town gets each year comes close to the number who visit the Colosseum in Rome. The resort town is famous for its pastel-coloured houses perched on sheer cliffs, its gorgeous scenery and its delicious food. This is where you’ll find out exactly what the Italian motto La Dolce Vita, or “the sweet life”, really means. It’s also my favourite town in the whole region – I won’t lie, it was love at first sight.

You won’t need more than a day to see Positano, but to make the most of its fairy-tale atmosphere and have time for the beach too, I’d recommend staying at least two days. It’s no accident the locals call it “the vertical town”, so get ready to climb a lot of steps. Positano is a favourite with plenty of celebrities thanks to its nightlife, beach bars, restaurants, upmarket hotels and, of course, pricey boutiques. Bear in mind that between May and September it’s hard to escape the crowds in the narrow streets, and hotel prices at that time are among the highest on the Amalfi Coast. The town doesn’t have a huge number of sights, but one of its busiest spots is the beach, Spiaggia Grande or Positano Beach. That’s also where you’ll find the harbour, where you can hire a yacht or buy tickets for one of the ferries to the island of Capri. Tip: you can hire a scooter or a little retro Fiat here to get around between the towns, or just to take some great photos.

Capri

Although it isn’t part of the Amalfi Coast, the island of Capri is one of the most popular day trips in this part of Italy. It’s easy to get there by ferry, private yacht or group tour from Sorrento or Positano. As soon as you step off at the harbour you’ll feel its distinctly glossier atmosphere – luxury five-star hotels, chic restaurants and bars, boutiques of world-famous designer brands, limousines and yachts worth several million euros. To be honest, Capri is one of the most beautiful corners of Europe, which is exactly why I don’t understand why visitors somehow underrate it and come for just a day, when the island has so much to offer. Traffic on the island is heavily restricted, which makes it a lovely place for walking. Capri is famous for its lavish villas, gardens, Roman ruins and stunning views. One of the island’s biggest sights is the Gardens of Augustus, full of Mediterranean plants and a real feast for the eyes. You can also take a boat round the island to another major sight – the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra).

Praiano

Tourists very often overlook Praiano in favour of bigger, more famous Amalfi and Positano, but if you want to avoid crowded streets and really enjoy the region, then Praiano is your place. This is where we chose to stay on our trip to the Amalfi Coast, and there were plenty of reasons why. Despite being right next to Positano (8 km), accommodation in Praiano is many times cheaper than in its bigger “cousin”. A night in a hotel in Positano similar to the one we stayed in would cost several thousand euros. On top of that, the atmosphere was much more relaxed, there was parking, and we didn’t need to book restaurants months in advance. Don’t get me wrong – Positano is still my favourite town in this part of Italy, but it isn’t a place where you can really unwind.

As in most of the towns in the region, things to do here mainly come down to enjoying heavenly Italian food, relaxing on the beach and admiring the beautiful views. Of course, I have to mention one of the village’s main sights – the church of San Gennaro, or “St Januarius”, which is part of the landscape and impossible to miss. Marina di Praia is the name of the local public beach, where you can happily go and work on your tan. A regular bus runs through Praiano towards both Positano and Amalfi, so if you use it as your base you’ll easily get around the other towns in the region without a car.

Fiordo di Furore

Amalfi

Amalfi is the largest town on the coast that bears its name and one of the biggest draws for tourists after romantic Positano. In the Middle Ages it was a thriving city with one of the major ports in Italy. Today Amalfi is the place to stay for those who aren’t so dazzled by the luxury and VIP venues some of the other towns in the region offer.

Amalfi undoubtedly has its own charm and plenty to offer – there’s something for everyone. From pebble beaches with beautiful panoramic views and restaurants serving the locals’ favourite Frutti di mare pasta, to traditional lemon gelato and a rich historical and cultural heritage – a host of museums, medieval buildings and churches, including Amalfi’s masterpiece, the Cathedral of Sant’Andrea.

Atrani

Less than a kilometre from Amalfi lies the little town of Atrani, squeezed between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the mountains towering above it. It’s a tiny place, but it has a lovely stretch of beach where you can spend a sunny afternoon once you’ve wandered its lanes and seen the Byzantine-style church of San Salvatore de Birecto. There are some very pleasant bars and cafés near the beach too, where you can sit down for something cold to drink, especially if you’re there in summer. On our way to Amalfi we couldn’t find anywhere to park, so we left the car in one of Atrani’s private car parks – and at the time I hadn’t even noticed it was actually a different town. To be honest, the two have almost merged into one, and unless you knew beforehand that Atrani was a separate town, you’d never guess. It was about a 15-minute walk from the car park to the centre of Amalfi.

Ravello

Unlike most towns on the Amalfi Coast, Ravello isn’t on the seafront but high up in the hills that tumble down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. That, of course, doesn’t make it any less charming or appealing. Breathtaking views, a medieval tower, a Byzantine church, impressive medieval villas with grand architecture, charming fountains and romantic restaurants where you can watch the sunset are just some of the things to enjoy in Ravello. Compared with Positano and Amalfi, Ravello is much calmer, and you’ll get a feel for the town’s real atmosphere. Hotels and places to stay are also much cheaper here than in the more popular spots on the coast, so you can use it as your base during your stay in the region. Ravello is truly enchanting and well worth at least a full day.

Minori and Maiori

Minori and Maiori are two charming and very small towns – I’d call them villages, really – that tourists often overlook in favour of the better-known spots on the Amalfi Coast. The two sit right next to each other, and visitors who make it to this part of the region often explore both in a single day. I highly recommend them to those of you travelling with children, or anyone simply after some peace and quiet who isn’t dying to elbow their way through crowds. They’re handy for parking and have more budget-friendly places to stay, so you can use them as a base for your holiday here. Minori and Maiori have pretty little central squares and, of course, a lovely seafront promenade where you can stroll and enjoy the sea. The lack of huge crowds has helped the towns keep their authenticity, and here you can really feel the local atmosphere and pace of life. Maiori is home to one of the most beautiful and biggest beaches in the region, and above the town stands the medieval fortress of Castello di San Nicola di Thoro Plano, built in the 9th century, with an incredible view over the bay. It’s also a lovely place for a walk early in the morning, before the sun gets too strong.

Salerno

Although it isn’t one of the Amalfi Coast towns, Salerno is close to them, and lots of travellers use it as a base for exploring the region. It’s one of Italy’s main port cities, yet it somehow stays in the shadow of bigger Naples. Even so, it’s often on the route of those heading to the Amalfi Coast, because one of the two main roads to Naples and Rome runs through it. A fascinating fact about Salerno that very few visitors know is that for a few months in 1944 the city was the capital of Italy, freshly liberated from the fascists. It’s a city with an incredibly rich history, an ancient past and plenty of architectural sights, the greatest of which is the cathedral built in the 11th century. Other sights include the Archaeological Museum, Palazzo Pinto and Arechi Castle, which towers over the city like a sentry. Around 30 km south of Salerno lie the remains of the magnificent ancient Greek city of Paestum, founded as a Greek colony in the 7th century BC. Here you’ll find some of the most important monuments of ancient Greek culture – the temples of Neptune, Hera and Ceres.