Toledo – Exploring Spain's Old Capital

In the heart of Spain, an hour’s drive south of Madrid, lies the beautiful medieval city of Toledo – Spain’s old capital. Also known as “the city of three cultures” for its mix of Christian, Muslim and Jewish buildings, Toledo is a true open-air museum. It’s no accident that it’s on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city has over 30 museums and a whole host of important historic buildings. It reminded me a lot of my beloved home town of Tarnovo, with its cobbled lanes and endless steps and steep hills.

Toledo is one of those towns where you simply can’t help getting lost – several times over. We decided to start with the great cathedral, but of course we got lost and ended up in a small medieval church that’s been turned into a museum. Even if it wasn’t the most interesting church I’ve ever seen, I was struck by how the Spanish had turned a little church with bare walls into an interactive museum that draws tourists in for a modest 2 euros. After about 40 minutes of wandering the twisting streets, we finally made it to the cathedral.

The city has an awful lot of churches, monasteries, mosques and synagogues, thanks to the many different cultures that have lived here over the centuries. If you’re interested, quite a few of them have been turned into museums you can visit. There are also loads of souvenir shops, goldsmiths’ workshops and places to eat, so there’s plenty to fill your time if you get tired of museums.

At the highest point of the city stands El Alcázar – the largest and most historically important building here. It was built in the 3rd century, during Roman rule, and was the palace of the local rulers. In the Middle Ages it was rebuilt and housed the Spanish court. Today it’s a military museum and library. The best view of El Alcázar – and of Toledo as a whole – is from the hill opposite, Mirador del Valle. You can get there by tourist bus or little tourist train. The view is one of a kind and you can take some fantastic photos, so set aside at least an hour for it.

I was genuinely impressed by Toledo, maybe because we went with absolutely no expectations. But I can tell you that if you want to feel the true spirit of Spain, this is the place. Madrid and Barcelona are popular destinations, but they’re modern cities that took on their look over the last century, whereas Toledo has been shaped over many centuries.

How to get to Toledo

Toledo lies about 70 km south-west of Madrid, making it the perfect destination for a day trip or a short stay. Getting there is easy and convenient, and there are plenty of options:

• By train: The quickest and most convenient way to get to Toledo is on the high-speed AVE train from Madrid’s Atocha station. The journey takes about 30 minutes, with trains every hour. Tickets cost around 13–16 euros, depending on class and time of travel. Toledo station is about a 15-minute walk from the historic centre, but you can also take a bus or taxi.
• By bus: Buses from Madrid’s Plaza Elíptica bus station to Toledo are another popular option. The journey takes about 1 hour and tickets cost between 5 and 10 euros. Buses stop at Toledo bus station, which is close to the city centre.
• By car: If you’d rather drive, Toledo is easy to reach from Madrid on the A-42 motorway. The drive takes about 1 hour, depending on traffic. Parking in Toledo’s historic centre can be a challenge, so it’s best to use the public car parks outside the old town.
• Organised tours: Plenty of tour operators in Madrid offer day trips to Toledo, including transport and guided tours. It’s a good option if you’d prefer an organised trip with a guide to show you the sights.

What to see in Toledo

Toledo Cathedral (Catedral Primada)

Toledo Cathedral is one of the most imposing Gothic cathedrals in the world. Construction began in 1226 under King Ferdinand III and wasn’t finished until the 15th century. What makes the cathedral unique is its mix of architectural styles – Gothic foundations with Renaissance and Baroque elements in the later additions. It’s famous for its magnificent stained-glass windows, its great altarpiece and the unique engravings kept inside.

• Admission: Around 10 euros for adults, including access to the main areas of the cathedral as well as the museum and treasury. Audio guides are available in several languages.
• Top tip: For the best view of the cathedral and the city, climb the bell tower, which offers an impressive panorama.

The Alcázar of Toledo (Alcázar de Toledo)

The Alcázar stands on the highest point in Toledo and is one of the city’s symbols. This massive fortress was built up over various periods of history, including Roman, Visigothic and Moorish times. The current structure was restored after the destruction of the Spanish Civil War and today houses the Army Museum (Museo del Ejército), where you can learn about Spain’s military history.

• Admission: Around 5 euros for adults, with reduced tickets for children and students.
• Top tip: Allow at least 2–3 hours to see the whole museum and fortress. It’s ideal for anyone who loves history and architecture.

El Greco Museum (Museo del Greco)

Toledo is inextricably linked with the name of El Greco, one of the most famous artists of the Renaissance. The El Greco Museum is housed in a building that resembles the home where the painter lived and worked. Inside you’ll find some of his best-known works, including the famous “The Burial of the Count of Orgaz”, one of El Greco’s most majestic creations.

• Admission: Around 3 euros for adults; reduced tickets for students and pensioners.
• Top tip: Entry is free every Sunday, so if you’re on a budget, plan your visit for that day.

Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca

Toledo is famous for its Jewish heritage, and Santa María la Blanca is one of the most impressive examples of this cultural symbiosis. Built in the 12th century, it’s the oldest surviving synagogue in Europe and a testament to the time when the three religions – Christianity, Islam and Judaism – lived peacefully side by side in Toledo. Although it no longer functions as a synagogue, the building has kept its unique architecture – elegant Moorish arches and exquisitely decorated columns.

• Admission: Around 3 euros for adults.
• Top tip: There isn’t much information on site, so it’s a good idea to use an audio guide or read up on it beforehand to learn more about its history and significance.

Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes was built in the 15th century on the orders of Queen Isabella I to mark her victory over the Portuguese at the Battle of Toro. This Franciscan monastery is one of the finest examples of Isabelline Gothic – a style that combines Gothic and Renaissance elements. The cloister is particularly striking, with its exquisite arches and peaceful atmosphere.

• Admission: Around 3 euros for adults.
• Top tip: A stroll around the inner garden is one of the most peaceful and beautiful experiences in Toledo – the perfect place for a bit of rest and relaxation after a long walk around the city.

San Martín Bridge (Puente de San Martín)

San Martín Bridge is a historic bridge spanning the River Tagus. Built in the 14th century, it’s one of the most beautiful and picturesque spots in Toledo. The bridge is guarded by two towers that were once part of the city’s defences, and it offers wonderful views of the old town and the surrounding countryside.

• Top tip: San Martín Bridge is perfect for an evening stroll and sunset photos. If you want to capture the best panoramic views of Toledo, this is the place.