Valletta – the City of the Knights Hospitaller

Despite its small size, the Maltese capital, Valletta, is one of the country’s most appealing towns and the main base for most visitors during their stay – me included. Unlike most capitals, not just in Europe but around the world, Valletta has kept its authenticity through the centuries: no glass towers or skyscrapers, nothing over the top or needlessly pompous – just an unspoilt, elegant Baroque charm that wins over everyone who comes. It’s precisely this authenticity that has earned the city its place on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and I’d add that Valletta now boasts more than 300 historic buildings.

It’s a city steeped in history, with lovely little corners hidden away in its maze of lanes, incredible views over the surrounding towns and harbours, and plenty of pleasant cafés and bars where you can not only while away the time but also soak up the magic of the unique local atmosphere. In my blog about the sights of Malta and Gozo I described the country as a destination for every kind of traveller – and the same goes for the capital itself. Plenty of visitors come back to Malta just to spend 2-3 days in Valletta before flying home.

I’m devoting this whole blog to the places I recommend seeing in Malta’s capital, however much time you plan to spend there. Valletta is incredibly compact – you could practically hold it in the palm of your hand. You could see all the sights in a day, but if you like to explore slowly, without watching the clock, you could easily fill 2-3 days here.

When should you visit Valletta?

Thanks to its location, Malta is a great destination at any time of year – depending, of course, on why you’re going. The summer months are hot and dry, while winter, though a little cooler, is still a good time to visit thanks to all the sunshine. I went to Malta at the beginning of September and the weather was more than perfect for the beach – 35 degrees. Bear in mind that the country is a hugely popular summer destination in Europe, so the beaches can get pretty packed. The high season ends in late September, so I’d recommend planning your trip for either April-May or September-October. That way you’ll avoid both the huge crowds and the summer heat, which can climb above 40 degrees.

What is there to see in Valletta?

Fort St Angelo

Although Fort St Angelo isn’t actually in Valletta but across the water in the old capital, Birgu, it’s the perfect place to start your tour of the Maltese capital. The fortress looks impregnable – and, as it turned out, it was. It was the most important stronghold on the island in the days of the Knights Hospitaller, above all during the infamous Great Siege of Malta by the Ottoman Turks, when the fort was the heart of the resistance. While Birgu was the capital, the fort was the seat of the Grand Master of the Order of St John, until the government of Malta moved to today’s capital, Valletta. I decided to include it among Valletta’s sights because its walls give you an unbeatable view of the city and the harbour. For me personally, St Angelo remains one of the most beautiful places I saw in Malta.

The Upper Barrakka Gardens

Without a doubt, the Upper Barrakka Gardens are one of the most beautiful spots in Valletta and an absolute must on your tour of the city. The shade of the trees will certainly cool you down, especially if you come at the height of summer, but don’t expect a huge or lavish park. Given how small both Malta and its capital are, the gardens are fairly modest in size, but their terrace offers a phenomenal view over the Grand Harbour, and across to the ‘Three Cities’ – Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua. Of course, one of the highlights on the opposite shore is Fort St Angelo, which I’ve already told you about.

St Peter and St Paul Bastion

One of the reasons the Upper Barrakka Gardens are so busy is the daily cannon salute, or the Saluting Battery, as the sign at the entrance calls it. It’s a row of 8 cannons lined up along the walls of St Peter and St Paul Bastion – one of the oldest batteries in the world, which played a key role in defending the city. The tradition of firing a salute every day at 12:00 dates back to 1820. Today it’s a tourist attraction, with a short show that starts 15 minutes beforehand. The cannons are fired twice a day, at 12:00 and 16:00 – blanks, of course, with no cannonball. The Upper Gardens actually sit on part of the St Peter and St Paul fortifications, and many tourists don’t even realise the gardens are part of the fortress. If you’re after a quieter spot to be alone with your thoughts, I recommend the Lower Barrakka Gardens, in the lower part of the capital.

The Grand Master’s Palace

The palace of the Grand Master of the Order of the Hospitallers – Jean Parisot de la Valette, the founder of today’s capital – was one of the first buildings in the city, built in 1571. As well as being one of the oldest buildings in Valletta, the capital that bears its founder’s name, it’s also one of the most beautiful and impressive. It was later rebuilt and extended several times to suit the needs of its occupants. The building has always housed the country’s rulers – first the Grand Masters of the order, later the British governor, and today the President of Malta – but part of the palace is still open to visitors. Inside you can see the Throne Room, which was once the hall of the Supreme Council of the Knights, as well as the palace armoury. Outside, the building is guarded by soldiers in traditional Maltese military uniforms.

St John’s Co-Cathedral

Built between 1572 and 1577, the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, or St. John Co-cathedral, is a striking example of Malta’s lavish Baroque architecture. Although its façade has changed very little over the years and has kept its authenticity, I wouldn’t call it impressive – plain, if anything. It looks just like most of the island’s churches and gives no hint of the treasures hidden inside. Above the entrance is a balcony that was used to announce newly elected Grand Masters, and to its right, on one of the bell towers, you’ll see three clocks – one shows the time, the second the day of the week and the third the date. The interior, on the other hand, is sumptuous, to put it mildly. A real gem! The architect set out to outshine the splendour of the cathedrals in Rome and create a masterpiece in the heart of Valletta – and he certainly managed it.

The National War Museum and Fort St Elmo

Malta’s National War Museum is housed in the star-shaped Fort St Elmo, which was built to defend the Grand Harbour, and it traces the military history of this Mediterranean island nation. You can buy a combined ticket that covers both the museum and the fort. I’d recommend getting one, because the walls offer an incredible view of the harbour and the towns on the peninsula opposite. The museum is a big hit, especially with younger visitors, but with history buffs too. The exhibition is spread across a series of rooms, each covering a different period of rule in Malta.

The Auberge de Castille

One of the best-known buildings in Valletta is the Castille Palace, or Auberge de Castille. To be honest, we ended up here completely by chance, after leaving our hire car in a small car park nearby. We were on our way to the Upper Barrakka Gardens when we spotted this beautifully ornate Baroque building – another gorgeous example of the typical Maltese architecture from the time the capital was founded. We had no idea what it was, but a quick Google later we discovered it was the Auberge de Castille – once the seat of the knights of Castile, León and Portugal, one of the most powerful branches of the Order of St John. The knights from these regions were responsible for defending part of Valletta’s fortifications. The building means a great deal to the locals, not only for its cultural value but also for the beautiful, refined façade that graces Castille Square. It was badly damaged by bombing during the Second World War but was later restored to its original glory. Today it houses the Prime Minister’s office and isn’t open to visitors.

Casa Rocca Piccola

Malta is rich in aristocratic palaces and residences, and most of them are in excellent condition. Built in the 16th century, the palace of Casa Rocca Piccola, is regarded as the most beautiful and exquisite palace not just in Valletta but in the whole Maltese archipelago. It belongs to one of Malta’s noblest families – the de Piro family, whose lineage goes back almost 5 centuries. Interestingly, although their home is open to visitors today, the family’s descendants still live in part of this splendid house – and you can even rent a room and stay as a guest in the palace. The mansion boasts elegant Baroque architecture and around 50 incredible rooms that have kept their original look to this day. The de Piro family home is popular with tourists because it gives you a vivid picture of the daily life and culture of the locals at the time Valletta was founded, along with a rich collection of paintings and costumes from different periods of Malta’s history. Very few people know that Queen Elizabeth II also stayed at Casa Rocca Piccola back when Malta was part of the British Empire.  The entrance fee is 11 euros and I highly recommend a visit. You can buy tickets HERE.

The Triton Fountain

Although the Triton Fountain isn’t one of Valletta’s major sights – the locals wouldn’t even call it one, just a fountain like any other – I’ve included it in my list of interesting places in the Maltese capital because this is where many of the city’s walking tours begin. And you couldn’t miss it if you tried, as it stands in the big square in front of the capital’s main gate. The intercity buses from all over Malta stop here too. It’s also the central venue for all kinds of events, the most iconic being the celebrations for Republic Day.

As you approach the square, you’ll notice the three bronze figures – half man, half fish – proudly holding aloft a huge basin that looks like a shield. The Tritons have become a symbol of the island’s bond with the Mediterranean. 

The Parliament Building

Renzo Piano is the famous Italian architect who designed the Centre Pompidou in Paris and one of the symbols of London – The Shard skyscraper. He is also behind the City Gate project, which includes the Maltese Parliament building. As you walk through the main gate into Valletta, you can’t miss this innovative complex of two buildings that look like massive stone blocks perched on rows of columns. With this project the architect set out to marry a modernist complex with the city’s traditional, authentic architecture and give it a contemporary look. One building houses the parliamentary chamber and the other the MPs’ offices.

Wandering the streets of Valletta

Getting lost in Valletta‘s steep little streets isn’t all that easy, simply because the city was laid out on a grid, with all its main thoroughfares carrying people from one end of the capital to the other. Still, one of my favourite things to do in any city I visit is to get lost – or at least try to. Wandering the streets of any city with no aim at all, I stumble upon places that often turn out to be more interesting than the usual tourist sights, and I get to feel the city’s real atmosphere.

The Maltese capital is steeped in history, and the locals have managed to keep its buildings looking just as they always did, which makes it an absolute architectural gem. You’ll notice for yourself that the local architecture is fascinating, with façades known for their colourful balconies – which also makes them wonderfully photogenic. Valletta’s stepped lanes are dotted with lovely cafés and small family-run restaurants where you can enjoy the local cuisine.

Republic Street and Merchants Street are the busiest streets in the capital. They’re lined with dozens of little shops selling souvenirs, gifts, jewellery and all sorts of useful and not-so-useful knick-knacks. Bear in mind that they’re packed with tourists, and at certain times of day you’ll struggle to squeeze past the crowds.

The Bridge Bar

The waterfront promenade

Valletta’s seafront or Valetta Waterfront is the only sight in the capital outside the city walls. I’d describe this part of Valletta as calm and peaceful, and in the evening, with its pretty lights, it’s even romantic. There are plenty of lovely spots where you can sit down for a coffee or a drink, depending on what time of day you get here. This is where all the cruise ships, sightseeing boats and water taxis between Birgu and Valletta set off from.

A water taxi ride to the Three Cities

Getting from Valletta to the Three Cities (Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua) is easy – and costs just 2 euros – on the water taxis, traditional local boats painted in bright, cheerful colours. They reminded me so much of the gondolas in Venice, the big difference being that they have engines and the boatmen don’t sing romantic canzonettas.

Birgu, also known as Vittoriosa, is the oldest of the three towns on the shore opposite Valletta. It’s a lovely place for a stroll, by day or by night, and many tourists actually prefer to stay there rather than in Valletta because it’s quieter than the capital. As well as the beautiful views of Valletta and its own refined charm, Birgu has plenty of sights linked to Malta’s history, so I highly recommend adding it to your list.

Dinner in the sky

One of the most unusual things I’ve ever done was have dinner at a table hoisted 40 metres into the air by a crane. Yes, you read that right! Dinner in the sky is a hugely popular experience, available in more than 50 countries. Back when I was living in Dubai, I’d seen they had it there too, but I kept putting it off ‘for another time’, then Covid came along and I never went. To be honest, this dinner wasn’t planned at all. Purely by chance, I spotted the crane lifting a platform full of people from our hotel terrace and immediately looked up online how to book a table. Even though I’m terrified of heights, I managed to conquer my fear and went up. Dinner cost 125 euros per person, including alcoholic drinks and a set gourmet menu. Everything was prepared right there in mid-air. There was a DJ, bartenders and waiters. If I’m honest, it wasn’t the gourmet food but the adrenaline and the incredible view of the sunset that impressed me so much – but I highly recommend you give it a go too. It’s worth every penny!