Rila Monastery – a Thousand Years of History

Travel makes you rich – not in material things, but in spirit. You’re enriched by the different cultures you encounter, the different food you try, the different landscapes, buildings, history, people and ways of life – it all recharges you and leaves its mark on you. But in the heart of Bulgaria there’s a corner that’s close to every Bulgarian’s heart, one that has preserved the history of an entire nation. Although for many visitors it’s just a tourist attraction, Rila Monastery continues to guard the secrets and history of the Bulgarian people. Burned down several times, plundered, built, torn down and rebuilt again, and having survived a string of wars and Communism, today it’s the most revered monastery in the country.

As the weather warms up, we find ourselves looking more and more for places to escape to at the weekend. The beautiful scenery and the monastery nestled in the mountains make the perfect destination for a day trip, especially for those of you living in the capital. I last visited the monastery a month ago. Pick days that don’t fall on national or church holidays, so you can enjoy your trip rather than spend hours hunting for a parking space.

How do you get there?

The road to Rila Monastery is well maintained and regularly cleared in winter. On my last trip there was a landslide shortly before the monastery and one lane was closed for a short stretch, but it didn’t hold up the traffic.

The main road starts at the turn-off from the Struma motorway, a few kilometres before Blagoevgrad, near Kocherinovo. If you’re coming from Sofia, you can also take the previous turn-off, for the village of Smochevo. Both are marked with big signs and are hard to miss. From the turn-off it’s 30–40 kilometres to the monastery – and, as we said, with plenty of bends.

The history of the monastery

Rila Monastery was founded by Bulgaria’s greatest saint – the Venerable St John of Rila (876–946). The monastery came into being in the early 10th century, during the reign of Tsar Peter (927–968). At first it didn’t stand where it is today, but a few kilometres higher up in the mountains. It was a modest affair, sheltering only the hermit at first and later his disciples too.

St John of Rila (in many places also spelt Ioan) witnessed some of the most important events in Bulgarian history – the adoption of Christianity, the rise of the state under Tsar Simeon and its decline under his son Peter. After taking monastic vows at the St Dimitar Monastery in Boboshevo, the saint devoted himself to the life of a hermit.

The last 100 years haven’t been easy for the monastery. Under the Communist regime in Bulgaria, it was decided (in 1961) to stop all religious activity and turn it into a museum under the Ministry of Education and Culture. For a few years the monks were moved to other large Bulgarian monasteries. But a few years later (in 1968) they were allowed to return and once again began looking after the monastery. In  1983 the monastery was declared a cultural monument under the auspices of UNESCO. Since 1991 it has had its monastic status restored.

The tomb of St John of Rila

One of the most interesting and mystical places, though, is the tomb of the monastery’s patron saint and his cave, 3–4 kilometres further up the mountain. Don’t miss it! A narrow, picturesque path winds between rocks and tall, centuries-old beech trees up to a tiny church right next to the cave, where St John of Rila is believed to have been buried. The church is thought to have been built by the saint’s disciples, and this is believed to be the original site of the monastery.

It was in this very cave that the saint spent the last seven years of his life as a hermit, in prayer. It’s no coincidence that the locals say this place has a very powerful energy and is the most potent spot for prayers and for wishes to come true. At the entrance to the cave, and at the fountain nearby, you’ll see thousands of little notes left by pilgrims seeking the saint’s help. Thousands of sorrows, wishes and prayers. As you’ll see for yourself, the cave is very bare and humble, and the stone bed didn’t look the least bit comfortable. At the back of the cave there’s a crevice about two metres long. According to legend, only people with pure souls can pass through it, while sinners are held back by a magical force.

What else to see

Don’t miss the monastery’s Church History Museum. Somehow it often gets overlooked while everyone (quite rightly) admires the incredible church, the beautiful courtyard and the delicious mekitsi and yoghurt. But if you’ve never been inside the museum, next time make time to put that right. The museum will tell you the thousand-year history of this holy cloister.